Visiting Arctic Norway had long been a dream.
Flying into Tromso, 200 miles above the Arctic Circle, I had a bird’s-eye view of a stunning winter wonderland. I felt as if I was gazing down at a Christmas card.
Have you ever dreamed of crossing the Arctic Circle, or have you already been? I came close on a trip to Churchill, Manitoba, Canada to see beluga whales and polar bears, about 925 miles south. But this was the real thing! I bundled up in my cold-weather gear, my heart pounding with excitement like a kid going to Disneyland. It was 12:30 p.m. when I landed. There was just enough light left in the day to see the jagged, snow-covered mountains and the icy sapphire waters of the fjord. By the time I reached my hotel in Tromso, darkness had already fallen.
The main reason for visiting Arctic Norway? Orcas.
In the Tromso region, hundreds arrive to feast on the herring between November and January. It’s even possible to swim with them by booking a liveaboard adventure, which I discussed in my post on the Best Places to See Orcas in the Wild. Of course, it’s not cheap. And, as a solo traveler, you’ll likely have to share a small cabin with someone you don’t know. My good friend Isabella with Boundless Roads/Solo Nomad Journeys offers some great information on this for those who are interested. She also put together an amazing YouTube video of her experience, featured below.
For my trip visiting Arctic Norway, I chose to spend time in Tromso. The plan was to explore the town and take a couple of tours before heading to the Arctic Panorama Lodge. It’s in a secluded location that’s a prime spot for whale watching and the northern lights. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
How to Get to Tromso and Where to Stay
Tromso is a relatively small city with a population of just over 40,000 but it’s the hub of Northern Norway. There’s an international airport with direct flights available from multiple cities, including Oslo, Copenhagen, and Stockholm. My long-haul flight took me to London and with Copenhagen a popular connection, I flew in from there to enjoy the Christmas Market at Tivoli Gardens that was beautifully decked out for the holidays.
Back to Tromso, it’s worth spending at least a couple of days here before or after a liveaboard trip, or a stay in a wilderness lodge. But there’s enough to do here to fill at least a week or more.
I stayed at the Scandic Ishavshotel, one of the highest-rated hotels in the city. It sits right along the waterfront, just a short stroll from the main tour departure point. Full disclosure, don’t expect visiting Arctic Norway to be cheap. Few things could be considered “budget-friendly,” depending on your particular budget, but I felt this hotel was a good value. I had a room overlooking the port with a gorgeous view. And, if you’re lucky, the sky will be filled with stunning sunset colors the polar nights are known for. I enjoyed just a glimpse in Tromso due to the cloud cover, but there was much more to come.
Some of the other hotels in Tromso to consider include:
- Radisson Blu Hotel
- Clarion Hotel The Edge
- Comfort Hotel Xpress Tromso
It’s worth looking into Airbnbs here too. After returning from the Arctic Panorama Lodge I spent a few more nights in Tromso. My cozy rental looked like something out of a postcard! It was further from most of the attractions but still within walking distance, about 15 to 20 minutes on foot to the center of town. Set further up the hill, the view was fantastic too.
What to Do in Tromso
To take advantage of the many things to do in Tromso, there’s really no need for a rental car. Most attractions are within walking distance and the majority of winter activities are enjoyed as part of organized tours that include transportation.
Ride the Fjellheisen Cable Car to the Storsteinen Mountain Viewpoint
When visiting Arctic Norway, the best way to begin your trip is to take in the panoramic view over Tromso and its surrounds from Storsteinen Mountain. You can easily hop on the bus (No. 26) to reach the base where the Fjellheisen cable car will bring you to the top. If you’re feeling more adventurous, you can also hike up via the Sheratrappa trail in under an hour.
With the limited daylight hours, it was nearly dark by the time I arrived but the illuminated city, bridges, and mountains were all still in view.
Explore the Museums
There are several museums in Tromso worth exploring. If you want to learn about Norwegian folklore, particularly involving trolls, head to the Troll Musuem. It’s right around the corner from Scandic Ishavshotel and reveals everything from Norwegian fairytales involving trolls to what they look like in their natural habitats. It incorporates sounds and moving elements, bringing them all to life.
The Polar Museum offers intriguing exhibits on life in the far north with Tromso the gateway to the Arctic for everyone from adventurers to researchers. You’ll learn about an explorer’s first encounter with a polar bear, polar exhibitions, sealing, and even the cultural history of Svalbard, the northernmost year-round settlement on Earth, nearly 600 miles north of Tromso.
It only takes about an hour to see everything at the Polaria Aquarium, with the playful seals a highlight. You can even book an exclusive meeting for a selfie with one of the animals.
Tromso Arctic Reindeer Tour
Getting up close to reindeer has long been on my list. It’s possible in the Scottish Highlands, but a spring blizzard canceled my first visit and illness took me out for the second. The third time was the charm! I joined the Tromsø Arctic Reindeer tour. It includes a bus ride to the Sami camp, learning all about the Sami culture, a traditional dinner, and feeding the reindeer.
We spent a lot of time feeding and interacting with the reindeer, much longer than I expected. Afterward, it was time to warm up by heading inside for a delicious traditional dinner, including reindeer stew.
The Fascinating Sami Culture
After dinner, we headed into a tent to learn about the Samis, Norway’s indigenous people, from our host, a Sami herself. While I really enjoyed hanging out with the reindeer, this was a definite highlight. Few people know much about this culture and I was so intrigued that I purchased a book back in Tromso to learn more.
The Samis have a deep connection to reindeer herding that continues to this day. There is even a promise between the Sámi and the reindeer that they will care for each other for all eternity. It’s the foundation upon which their culture and lifestyle are based, with a strong emphasis on sustainability and living in harmony with nature.
This experience is really a must-do for anyone visiting Tromso.
Some of the other things to do in Tromso during the winter include:
- Taking a northern lights tour
- Dog sledding
- Snowshoeing
- Snowmobiling
As there was an excellent chance to see Mother Nature’s light show right from my Arctic lodge, I decided to skip the tour from Tromso. I’d also seen the aurora many times before, in Canada and Iceland. But if you have the time and won’t be staying in a more remote location, it’s worth doing. Your guide will know just where to go for the best odds, away from the city lights.
Arctic Panorama Lodge
The Arctic Panorama Lodge is about a four-hour drive from Tromso. But it’s easy to get there with a shuttle transfer from the airport or your hotel in the city (and back) provided.
Special packages are offered for more of an all-inclusive stay. These are the best value and include your accommodation, breakfast, lunch, dinner, and multiple activities. There are a variety of options so you can choose based on your interests, such as dog sledding tours and whale-watching safaris. There’s also a spa and a sauna, which feels wonderful after a chilly adventure.
Of course, the main reason I decided to stay was the chance to see orcas. I switched out the dog-sledding excursion for another whale safari so I was able to go whale watching twice.
Humpbacks, orcas, and a stunningly painted sky
An experience of a lifetime, I don’t think I’ve ever witnessed anything more surreal. I couldn’t stop smiling.
There were humpbacks in every direction. On one side, the sky was filled with pastels, and on the other, brilliant hues of orange, yellow, and pink that looked as if I was in a computer-generated scene.
A photo can’t really capture this setting, but you’ll get a better idea from the video below.
But what about the orcas you ask? After we left the humpbacks, our captain slowed down to take in another incredible view. Then suddenly, an orca appeared.
Clouds replaced the color in the sky, but soon there were fins everywhere.
Needless to say, my adventure visiting Arctic Norway turned out to be one of the best trips that I’ve ever taken, right on par with my African safari.
Oh! But it didn’t end there. With clear skies returning in the evening, we enjoyed a spectacular show.
After leaving Tromso, I flew back to London, spending three nights in the suburb of Richmond. If that sounds familiar, it might be because you’re a “Ted Lasso” fan. This was the icing on the cake, or the cherry on top, if you will. I spent an evening in Princes Head pub where many scenes are filmed.
The perfect end to a perfect trip. Humpbacks, orcas, northern lights, and some of the kindest people I’ve ever met. The manager even gave me an AFC Richmond scarf to wear and let me stand behind the bar for a photo. During a time when the world can feel as if it’s falling apart, it was just what I needed.
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