Meet “The Friendlies.” It’s not only the Mexican people who are friendly in Baja California Sur but also the gray whales. You might have seen the viral images and videos of whale watching in Baja where the animals seek out interaction. They sometimes swim right up to boats, seemingly hoping for a head rub. Mothers occasionally even lift their calves up to humans. While it seems surreal, I can attest to this experience but it hasn’t always been this way.
There was a time when humans hunted the whales, they even harpooned their calves. That resulted in some mothers smashing their boats to pieces. The whales were called the “Devil Fish” in Baja because of all the boats that were destroyed. But who could blame them?
In 1947, commercial whaling in Mexico was finally banned and the gray whale population, once decimated, started to bounce back. But the whales had developed a fierce reputation and weren’t welcomed by local fishermen who feared their attacks.
Gray Whale Watching in Baja: From ‘Devil Fish’ to ‘Friendlies’
One day, a whale slowly swam up to one of the boats. It rubbed itself against the vessel before raising its head out of the water next to a fisherman. When he nervously reached out to touch the whale, it moved closer to encourage contact. During the interaction, the man continued to pet the whale and the years of fear faded into the past. This was the moment locals say peace was finally made between the local community and the gray whales.
Today, the breeding lagoons in Baja are considered among the best places on Earth for close encounters with whales. After that fateful day, the attitudes of the locals and the whales were forever changed. Now mother gray whales are sometimes teaching their calves to interact with humans. They purposely swim over to the pangas (small boats), lifting their babies to the surface of the water. It’s as if they’re providing an introduction.
The animals, once called Devil Fish, are now known as The Friendlies. Both the local community and the government strictly regulate access. That helps to ensure human activities don’t negatively affect these magnificent and intelligent creatures. Interactions are always on the whales’ terms. Many seem to enjoy them just as much as the people who come to see them do.
The only place in the world where gray whales have their babies is Baja’s lagoons. They choose the lagoons as they’re protected from the strong currents of the Pacific Ocean. The shallow water of the lagoons means that the whales’ only predator, the orca (killer whale), won’t enter. It provides the ideal environment for moms to nurse their calves. They can also easily supervise as the young whales learn how to swim, how to breathe properly, feed, dive, and socialize with other whales.
Where to Meet Baja’s Gray Whales
There are multiple options for whale watching in Baja California Sur. You can travel directly to one of the lagoons where the gray whales are concentrated during the winter. That includes Magdalena Bay, Laguna Ojo de Liebre, and San Ignacio Lagoon. The best time to come is between late January through mid-March. There are also fully guided tours with pick-up from your accommodation available from La Paz, Loreto, and other locations.
Independent Trips for Gray Whale Watching in Baja
As noted, you can rent a car and visit the lagoons on your own but this is a remote and rugged area to navigate. Unless you’re fluent in Spanish, it can also be difficult to negotiate directly with the boat captains. It’s critical to join a tour with someone appropriately licensed. Otherwise, there’s a good chance your boat will be forced to head back to the dock. I’ve witnessed this several times as boat activity is closely monitored.
Whale Watching Tours from La Paz
If you stay in La Paz, you’ll be able to enjoy the many delights of the cosmopolitan city, from strolling the Malecon (waterfront promenade) to spending time on one of the country’s most beautiful beaches, Playa Balandra, and embarking on excursions like swimming with whale sharks and snorkeling with sea lions.
Whale Watching Tours from Cabo
Of course, most people who visit Baja stay in the Los Cabos area, one of the most popular vacation destinations in Mexico. For those staying there, if you book with Baja Sur Tours, you can be picked up at your accommodation. This is the same company I’ve been heading out with for years, and I’ve yet to be disappointed. One of the most magical moments from my first trip was partially responsible for sparking my move to Baja and can be seen in the video below.
By choosing a reputable outfitter like Baja Sur Tours you’ll enjoy the best possible experience as the staff stays up to date on the whale activity in real-time with connections to the boat captains at the lagoons. That means they’ll know where to go to provide you with this experience of a lifetime. Another big plus is that marine biologists are on board who are knowledgeable and passionate about the whales and the environment, helping to enhance the trip even more.
No matter how you decide to enjoy whale watching with the famous Friendlies in Baja, you can begin your adventure by flying into San Jose del Cabo International Airport (SJD), La Paz International Airport (LAP), or Loreto International Airport (LTO).
Feel free to contact me if you have questions, would like any tips, or even want to join me on a tour: KC@NeverTooLate2Travel.com
For more great whale watching in Maui, check out my Maui travel guide here.
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