Visiting the Galapagos Islands is a dream. I just returned from this trip of a lifetime, a must for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts 600 miles off the coast of mainland Ecuador. Of course, there are few people who haven’t heard about this archipelago. It’s world-renowned for its unique microcosm of evolution that inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution when he visited in 1835. What many aren’t aware of is that the islands can be explored independently. If you’ve ever wanted to visit but weren’t sure how to do it, this travel guide to the Galapagos is sure to help.

There are over 120 islands and islets in the archipelago but just four are inhabited: Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Isabela, and Floreana. Each one is unique making it difficult to narrow an itinerary down. But no matter where you land, you’ll discover all sorts of animals. Some can only be found on these islands, such as the Galapagos giant tortoise. Even those you might find at home are probably different. For example, the Galapagos sea lions aren’t afraid of people, providing some unique close encounters.

How to Visit the Galapagos Islands

While many people are under the impression that the Galapagos Islands can only be visited on a cruise, it’s easy to do an independent trip. You just need a good travel guide to the Galapagos. Unless you book the most luxurious accommodations, it will be much less expensive too. Want to see the most in the shortest amount of time and can afford the extra cost? Consider an expedition cruise with a company like Unforgettable Travel. (note: I’m not getting paid to recommend them. This company is truly the best from the exceptional service to accommodation, excursions, dining, and more.)

Flights to the Galapagos

There are flights to the Galapagos from Quito and Guayaquil so you’ll need to fly into one of those cities first before catching a flight to Baltra Island in the Galapagos. Once there, getting between the islands can be done by ferry or plane. By basing yourself on Santa Cruz Island at least part of the time (the most populated island) you’ll have many options for day trips to other islands, including Bartolome, North Seymour, Santa Fe, Pinzon, and Daphne.

But which islands to visit?

Getting to the various islands is easier than deciding which to visit. I spent time on Santa Cruz, Isabela, and San Cristobal islands in addition to visiting Bartolome on a day trip. It’s difficult to say which was my favorite because they are all so different.

Santa Cruz Island is the most touristy with lots of options for dining and shopping, as well as offering a wide range of excursions. Isabela is much less developed with a more rugged, authentic feel and is the best for swimming with penguins. San Cristobal falls somewhere in between in terms of a touristy feel and is renowned for its sea lions which you’ll see lounging around nearly every corner, although sea lions are commonly spotted on the others too.

To help you make the best decision for your visit to the Galapagos, you’ll want a more in-depth understanding of what makes them unique.

Santa Cruz Island

The first island in your travel guide to the Galapagos is Santa Cruz. One of the most popular to stay on, it has the largest population of all the islands, with around 18,000 people calling it home. You’ll find many tourist facilities here, including some of the best restaurants and hotels like Finch Bay Galapagos, the most exclusive, in the capital city of Puerto Ayora. It also offers markets for picking up groceries, souvenir shops, boutiques, galleries, ATMs, and numerous tour operators with a wide range of tour options available.

Tours and Activities

I joined a full-day tour on the Sea Lion Yacht through Finch Bay Galapagos Hotel which was the highlight of my time in Santa Cruz. We visited Bartolome Island which included a hike to the top for the bucket-list view pictured below. Cruising around the island’s shore we saw a couple of penguins, a blue-footed boobie, and lots of sea lions. We got to snorkel (gear included) which was like swimming in an aquarium with countless colorful fish and even a Galapagos shark. Just as we were about to make our return, a pod of eight orcas appeared which was a rare treat.

Santa Cruz is also home to the Charles Darwin Research Center where you can learn all about the conservation work that’s happening to protect Galapagos wildlife. It’s the best place to get up close to the Galapagos giant tortoise. Right in town you’ll see many sea lions around the docks and enjoying naps right on the sidewalks, along with marine iguanas, brown pelicans, and Sally Lightfoot crabs.

Getting to Santa Cruz Island:

You’ll fly into Seymour Galapagos Ecological Airport on Baltra Island from mainland Ecuador. Upon arrival, there is a bus that will bring you to the water taxi for the short ride to Santa Cruz. From there you’ll need to continue by a prearranged transfer (check with your hotel) or taxi to Puerto Ayora 26 miles away. Some of the hotels like Finch Bay will arrange all of this with someone there to guide you throughout the journey.

Isabela Island

The next island in your travel guide to the Galapagos is Isabela, the largest in the Galapagos at 1,771 square miles. It’s relatively undeveloped with no luxury hotels but you will find some great places to stay, including Chez Manany which is less than a 5-minute walk from one of the island’s best and most easily accessible snorkeling beaches, Concha de Perla. Here you can swim with penguins, along with the sea lions and iguanas. The rooms are more like upscale apartments and include full kitchens while the service is beyond outstanding. Your host can arrange for various excursions like kayaking tours.

Incredible Wildlife

When it comes to wildlife, as any good travel guide to the Galapagos will tell you, Isabela is one of the best for spotting penguins and blue-footed boobies. I joined a kayaking tour and we saw them in droves. The water was so clear we were able to look down and see sharks, sea turtles, and lots of fish. Sea lions and their pups were all over the beach while iguanas soaked up the sun in between.

Getting to Isabela Island:

It’s possible to take the ferry or fly to Isabela Island from Santa Cruz Island. As the ferry takes about three hours, the water can be rough, and the schedule wasn’t the best, I chose to fly. There is only one airline, Emetebe, and as you might imagine, it’s a very small plane. Both flights I took with the airline left about 30 minutes after the scheduled departure but overall the flight itself was a positive experience with some fabulous views. I don’t recommend booking the transfers that are available when booking the flights – three of the four I booked never showed up and I’ve yet to receive a refund. Taxis are easy to catch right at the airport to your accommodation and cost a bit less too.

San Cristobal Island

If you’re looking for more of a serene atmosphere but with plenty of conveniences, dining options, and hotels, San Cristobal is a good choice. It falls in between Santa Cruz and Isabela in terms of tourist crowds. I really enjoyed The Pier Restaurant & Cevicheria which is right on the water and has a great menu with delicious dishes and outstanding service.

If you book a water view room at Casa Opuntia, you’ll enjoy an amazing vista over the harbor and endless sea lion sightings. It’s just a short walk to The Pier restaurant and the main beach.

Sea lions and sea lion pups galore

Those who are especially interested in getting up close to the famous Galapagos sea lions shouldn’t miss visiting San Cristobal Island. That’s because it hosts the largest colony in the archipelago, making it No. 1 in this travel guide to the Galapagos for sea lion fans. It’s even better when the pups are around. The sea lion pups are born in May and June, with August through November the best time to see them. Visiting in mid-November, they seemed to be everywhere. I never got tired of watching them although one broke my heart as I watched it search for its mother, going from sea lion to sea lion crying only to be turned away.

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There are scenic hikes that can be enjoyed on your own here too. I walked to Cerro Tijeretas (35-40 minutes) to take advantage of some of the best snorkeling on the island at Darwin Bay, often with sea lions. The view from above shows the stunningly clear aquamarine water.

Getting to San Cristobal Island:

You can take the ferry from Isabela Island but you’ll have to travel back to Santa Cruz Island first. I chose to fly with Emetebe as noted previously. Once on San Cristobal Island the downtown area is a very short distance from the airport. You can take a taxi or walk depending on the exact destination of your accommodation.

Floreana

Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to visit Floreana Island but I was able to talk to the locals about it. Much quieter than even Isabela with a population of only around 150, the main town of Puerto Velasco Ibarra is one of the world’s smallest and most isolated. There are just a few restaurants and hotels. As accommodation is so limited it’s a must to book well in advance.

Unique history

There are lots of petrels and Sally Lightfoot crabs here but the main reason to visit is Post Office Bay. Established by whalers in 1793, a wooden barrel was set up for sailors to leave letters that would be mailed by those who stopped and were heading in the right direction. It was the only connection for those who had loved ones at home. The system is still working today, with countless visitors dropping off their own letters and postcards while others traveling to a destination near an addressee will pick them up to take home and mail.

Best Time to Visit the Galapagos Islands

I visited the Galapagos in mid-November, which was absolutely perfect. It was rarely too hot nor too humid. Temperatures range from the low 70s on Isabela to around 80 on Santa Cruz. Some find the water is too chilly this time of year for snorkeling without at least a shorty wetsuit, but at 72 degrees, I was comfortable.

While the islands can be visited year-round, before booking your trip, you’ll want an understanding of the conditions and the type of wildlife you can expect to see.

Warm and Wet or Cool and Dry?

There are just two seasons. The warm and wet is from December through May and the cool and dry is between June and November. November seemed to offer the best of both worlds as a transitional month. I only saw some light rain on one morning of my trip. The latter part of this period is perfect for close encounters with lots of sea lion pups.

The dry season in the Galapagos is just a bit cooler and it’s the breeding season for many animals like the marine iguanas, sea lions, and multiple sea birds. The plankton blooms attract whale sharks bringing the chance to see those as well.

The wet season is the best for snorkeling and diving with the visibility excellent and both the air and water temperatures warmer, although there were no issues with visibility when I went snorkeling in November.

If you want to get a good taste of the islands and the incredible wildlife, you’ll need at least a week here but the more time you have, the better. My biggest regret was not having enough time on each island. I recommend two weeks, if possible, spending at least four days visiting Santa Cruz, Isabela, and San Cristobal, and if time allows, perhaps an overnight on Floreana.

Want to enjoy more epic wildlife? Go beyond this travel guide to the Galapagos by checking out The Best Wildlife Watching Experiences in Alaska.