When I told friends I was visiting Asturias, not one had even heard about this region in northern Spain. The only reason I learned about it was through Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown.” One of the last episodes of the show, it was narrated by Chef Jose Andres, who was born in Mieres. While I had a trip booked for the spring of 2020, obviously, that was not meant to be. It took another five years before I finally managed to get to Asturias, but it was worth the wait.
From the famously mouthwatering food scene to stunning nature like the Covadonga Lakes, dramatic Picos de Europa mountains, and breathtaking coastline with crowd-free beaches, I wondered why it wasn’t more popular.
The ‘Real’ Spain
Some say this is the “real” Spain. There are no tourist resorts here, and few locals I met spoke English. The mountains are at least as dramatic as the Rockies, and there’s even a population of brown bears. In the verdant valleys, there are nearly endless apple trees. Millions of apples are used to produce Asturia’s famous cider, the most popular drink in the region.
I can’t wait to go back.
If you want to explore a part of Spain that hasn’t suffered from overtourism, visiting Asturias should be at the top of your list.
What to Do When Visiting Asturias
Asturias covers nearly 4,100 square miles, which means if you have limited time for exploring, you’ll want to narrow down your options. These are the top things to do when visiting Asturias that can help you create your own memorable itinerary.
Explore the Covadonga Lakes & Cave of Covadonga
The Lakes of Covadonga are located in the heart of Picos de Europa National Park. The photogenic lakes are known for their mirage-like appearance, while surrounded by soaring peaks, easily accessible on foot via various hiking trails or by road.
Viewpoints
There are multiple viewpoints, including the Mirador de Entrelagos which translates to “Between the Lakes Viewpoint.” It offers a panoramic view of the lakes and the mountains. From the breathtaking Mirador de la Reina (Queen’s Viewpoint), the vista stretches all the way to the Cambrian Sea.
Lakes of Covadonga Hike
One of the best hikes you can take is the circular, approximately three-mile-long Lakes of Covadonga route. Stop at the Pedro Pidal Visitor Centre to learn more about the area before continuing to the Príncipe viewpoint and Lake Ercina, the region’s highest lake. From here, you’ll see the soaring summit of Peña Santa de Enol, often with the melodic chimes of cowbells.
Note that during the high season, generally from the last week of July to the first week of September, access to the lakes in private vehicles is restricted. After 9 a.m., you’ll need to take the bus, arrange for private taxi services, or join a guided tour.
Cave of Our Lady
About 7.5 miles from the lakes, you’ll find the “Cave of Our Lady,” a unique place of worship and pilgrimage dedicated to Our Lady of Covadonga. It’s surrounded by incredible natural beauty, with a pond and a mysterious fountain said to have magical towers.
Epic Mountain Views: Naranjo de Bulnes
While there are mountain views throughout the Picos, Naranjo de Bulnes, the highest peak at 8,455 feet, is a must-see.
A short walk from the village of Bulnes to the Mirador del Naranjo de Bulnes viewpoint delivers a spectacular, direct view. Or, if you’re up for a hike, follow the Canal del Texu trail to the base of Naranjo de Bulnes. It’s just over three miles one way, traveling from Poncebos through a spectacular gorge. It’s also possible to ride the funicular, shortening the hike to or from Bulnes.
Go Bear-Watching in Somiedo Natural Park
The Cantabrian brown bear was once on the brink of extinction, with only around 50 of the animals left in the mid-1990s. But thanks to conservation efforts, there are nearly 400 today and the population is increasing.
If you’d like the chance to see one while visiting Asturias, Somiedo Natural Park is the best place to go. A Biosphere Reserve, it offers breathtaking mountain scenery and multiple viewpoints for sighting the bears. The most frequented are the La Pola, Gua, and Principe viewpoints, but your best bet is to join a guided tour with an ecotourism company like Somiedo Experience.
Spring is the best time to observe the bears, with the adults just out of hibernation and cubs starting to explore with their mothers. Sightings are easier as the animals often graze in open meadows.
Beyond the bear watching, it’s worth visiting Somiedo for the scenery alone.
Spend Time on Practically Untouched Beaches
While many of Spain’s beaches are jam-packed with people, it’s much easier to find a more secluded stretch in Asturias. There are also livelier options with a variety of amenities, providing something for just about everyone.
San Antolin is near the town of Llanes at the mouth of the Cabras and Bedon estuary, stretching for three-quarters of a mile. It’s great for photo-ops and popular for surfing. If you want to swim, the main beach in Llanes, El Sablón offers calm waters ideal for a dip. Six miles west of town, Torimbia is truly stunning, with its crescent of long sands bounded by rocky headlands and green hills.
Where to Stay
While there are hotels in the major cities, there are few in the rural areas. Vacation rentals are common, most of which are individually owned. Plus, you’ll enjoy the warm hospitality Asturians are known for. The hosts are incredibly friendly and like to share tips with visitors about their beautiful home, enhancing the experience.
I split my time between two Airbnbs. One was just outside Picos de Europa National Park, and the other was a short distance from Somiedo Natural Park.
El Cuetu Cabrales
I was grateful that I’d rented a compact car when I reached the tiny village of Ortiguero and its maze of tiny streets. My GPS sent me down an alleyway that was so narrow I had to stop and pull the side mirrors in. I didn’t make that mistake again. Still, it was worth it for staying in what seemed like a dream.
The house had lots of character and probably far too much space for just one person. There were two bedrooms, but of course I chose the one with the best view. Out my window, I had a spectacular view that included several Asturian mountain cows who were curiously staring back.
The only sounds heard were the songs of the birds and the occasional ringing of the bells as the cows made their way across lush fields of grass. My hosts spoke no English, and I only speak very limited Spanish, but their warmth shone through regardless. Communication was easy via WhatsApp and a translator. My only regret was that I only had two nights here.
A converted 18th-century mill near Somiedo
My next Airbnb was a unique 18th-century mill that had been converted into a cottage rental. Located along the Pigüeña River, I loved falling asleep to the sounds of the water. It was also just a short drive from Somiedo Natural Park, while a hiking trail was steps from the door.
Writing this now, I’m ready to plan another trip to Asturias! But next time I would stay at least a couple of weeks. As I’d combined my visit here with Seville and Croatia, I had just six days. Of course, there’s really never enough time when you find one of those true hidden gems, is there?
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