Nearly everyone seems to head to Cabo San Lucas when visiting Baja California Sur. But they’re missing out. The state capital two hours north is well worth a visit. This colorful city is now my home, although I’ve played tourist here many times as a resident and long before. If you’re wondering what to do in La Paz, there’s a long list of possibilities on offer.
La Paz is not only a great place to explore while in Cabo, it’s a fabulous destination of its own. Translating to “the peace,” it’s a cosmopolitan city with some of the country’s best beaches within easy reach. It’s almost always sunny here with bright blue skies and an average of 340 days of sunshine every year. Perfect for enjoying the wealth of outdoor adventures!
For those who want to break free of the resorts further south and enjoy a more authentic experience, La Paz is ideal.
Best Time to Visit La Paz
You’ll want to consider the weather to determine the best time to visit La Paz. It has a subtropical desert climate with little rainfall. The vast majority of precipitation comes during the summer months, which is also the hottest time of the year. To make the most of your time and enjoy all of the outdoor activities comfortably, avoid the period from mid-July through mid-October. That’s when the heat is scorching, with average high temperatures rising above 100 degrees.
The rest of the year, the weather is practically perfect. In the heart of winter, there are likely to be some cooler, windier days, but the average high is 78 degrees. The water may be too chilly depending on what you’re used to, however. February is the coolest at about 67 degrees. I usually find it comfortable enough for a regular swimsuit even in the winter, especially on a sunny day.
Snorkel with Sea Lions at Espiritu Santo Island
A short and scenic boat ride from La Paz, Espiritu Santo Island is a UNESCO-listed nature reserve known for its colony of around 300 sea lions where visitors have the opportunity to get in the water and swim with them. In addition to sea lions, there are countless colorful fish here in the Sea of Cortez. The marine life is so abundant that international explorer Jacques Cousteau once called it the “Aquarium of the World.”
Swimming around with the friendly and playful sea lions is always a good time and the pups love a good belly rub too. The activity can be enjoyed from September through May as June, July, and August is the reproductive season when it’s banned for the safety of humans and animals. Be sure to book with a reputable company that includes a marine biologist guide. Many trips include a picnic lunch with ceviche on a pristine white sandy beach near Espiritu Santo, such as this small group Snorkel with Sea Lions and Beach tour.
Whale Watching
While there are many whales in the area, including humpbacks, fin whales, and sperm whales, gray whales have become the most famous. They’re referred to by the locals as the “Friendlies,” as they seem to enjoy interaction with humans and often bring their calves to meet those who arrive to visit them in the lagoons along the Pacific Coast. They can be seen from mid-January through early April with the peak time between February and about mid-March before they head north to Alaska on their epic annual migration.
You can find out more about how to visit the gray whales in my post about whale watching in Baja here.
Swimming with Whale Sharks
The Bay of La Paz is one of the best places in the world to swim with whale sharks. These beautiful creatures are neither sharks or whales, they’re fish. The gentle giants are the ocean’s largest fish and they’re in the area from around late fall through late spring, feeding on the nutrient-rich waters. They move slowly but as they are so large, it can be tough to keep up with them.
Many outfitters offer swimming with whale sharks excursions, but you’ll want to be sure the one you choose has the proper permits. Ideally, the company will have a local marine biologist on board so that you can get the most out of the experience, such as this whale shark snorkeling tour that can be booked on Viator.
Kayaking
There are lots of places to kayak in and around La Paz, including the mangroves that are just minutes from the Malecon (waterfront promenade). A gentle paddle that’s great for beginners, once you reach the mangroves there is a fantastic beach strewn with all sorts of shells. This tour offers the chance to learn all about the mangroves, their impact on the ecosystem, and the wildlife that depend on them.
There are also trips that depart from beautiful Balandra Beach, often named among the most beautiful in all of Mexico, with stops to snorkel vibrant coral reefs and hike to nearby Tecolote.
The Beaches
Speaking of the beaches, Balandra and Tecolote are two of the best in the area, located within about a 25-minute drive from the city center of La Paz. Playa Balandra is renowned for its soft, powdery sand, unique mushroom-shaped rock, and incredibly clear, calm turquoise water. it’s a dreamy spot with no resorts or hotels, only a couple of vendors like food trucks and one offering kayak rentals and other gear. The water doesn’t get deeper than just above waist level and near the rocks are schools of tropical fish.
The downside to Balandra is that it’s become a bucket-list destination which means it can get very busy so you’ll want to arrive early. To keep the crowds more limited, entrance is now regulated to allow up to only 450 visitors during two timed phases, from 8 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Plan to arrive early, ideally by around 7:30 a.m.
Or, head to nearby Tecolote. It’s just another five minutes further and you’ll find a wide range of eateries on the sand near the parking area along with an unspoiled stretch at the opposite end.
The Malecon
Strolling the Malecon, the city’s three-mile-long waterfront promenade is one of the must-dos in La Paz. You’ll enjoy beautiful views of the bay, boats and countless pelicans, and peering into the water, you’ll often see all sorts of colorful fish. Sculptures created by local, regional, and national artists are dotted throughout, including the famous Pearl of La Paz, which represents the city’s once-famous pearl industry.
On the other side of the Malecon, there are a wide variety of shops, bars, cafes, and restaurants. This is one of the best places you can enjoy dining or drinks while watching the city’s incredible sunsets.
How to Get to La Paz
La Paz has its own international airport but there are no longer direct flights from the U.S. so most visitors fly into San Jose del Cabo International Airport. From there, you can rent a car for the slightly over two-hour drive. It’s an easy journey that starts along the toll road/highway before traveling north along the coast, with the views between Cabo and Todos Santos particularly breathtaking.
Cactus Rent a Car is highly recommended by locals and visitors alike – I used the company multiple times before moving to the area. It offers flat rates that include insurance with no upsells. It’s the best way to get around and you’ll have the opportunity to stop and soak up the views. During the winter, you’ll often see humpback whales breaching right from the highway between Cabo and Todos Santos.
It’s also possible to book a seat on the Cabo Airport Bus, a transfer via EcoBajaTours, or one of many private transport options like Welcome Pickups. You might join the group La Paz Gringos BCS/Mexico on Facebook where you’ll find many private companies and individuals that offer transfers along with a wealth of recommendations for anything you might need while visiting La Paz.
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